Spring is in the Air and Rock Season Has Begun
March 5th, 2009Well, it sure has been a long time since I have the chance to sit down and reflect about my life. I guess that things are going well since I am still alive and have the opportunity to climb a lot. Lately I’ve been worrying about my future, (whether or not to go graduate school or study to become an AMGA Guide), and it has been taking a little toll on my physical and emotional balance. For that reason I am taking a few days off from my regular schedule of 3 to 5 days roped up, (either outside or training) to looks at some recent trips and find in them what makes climbing so special for me.
I was lucky enough to have a second week in Ouray, this time with Mark Cushman. I had been extremely excited since I had some projects to work on from the trip a few weeks before. The ice in the Front Range was really crappy as well and I had no opportunities t go to Vail or RMNP. We took off and met up with some of Mark’s friends to sample the ice in Feb. It was relieving to meet some new people who’s lives are not dedicated to climbing. It was fun and interesting to see how they too were enjoying the Little Switzerland of Colorado without being worried about how hard or scary their climbing was. Along with Mark’s friends, Scotty Borger came along to sample the ice himself and take some amazing photos.
We climbed several days in the park and I spent a lot of time top roping WI5 ice to get comfortable on steep terrain without having to focus on my mental block of leading ice. Only the season before I had tore a tendon in my ankle on a mixed route and did not want a repeat. After getting my technique dialed I soloed several low angle ice flows to get my head in check. 200 odd feet of ice free soloing did the trick. My mind was clear and in a good state. I felt energized and free to climb without hesitation of failure. It is a kind of energy that is hard to tap into when there is no risk involved, and that is exactly why soloing was the answer to my mental roadblock.
We spent some time in the backcountry at Camp Bird Road and I was able to work on one of my favorite mixed lines, Troglodyte (M9). While there was no redpoint, it was good to get the movements dialed and spending time figure out the sequence was worth it. A real attainable goal with a few more work sessions. Mark, Scotty and I also did a few two pitch ice lines such as Slippery When Wet (WI4) and Slip Sliddin’ Away (WI3).
We continued to sample the beauty of the Ouray Ice Park, (a completely free resource where they dump gallons of water over the cliff face each nite to create beautiful ice columns, fangs, and walls) and one morning I was lucky enough to lead Berzerker (WI4). It took me a while and there was definitely mental struggle the entire way of the climb, but Scott manage to capture the beauty of the line that I was feeling as I sung away at the perfect blue flow.
The trip ended on an epic note with Mark breaking his ankle in a lead fall on the climb Stairway to Heaven. After out last customary hot-tub-beer visitv, we took off with 5 days of climbing in a week and were fully satisfied.
Upon my return to Boulder I focused on some more strength training and seem to be rather attracted to sport climbing. I have been staying locally, (Boulder Canyon, North Table, and Clear Creek Canyon.) I’d get out often and early and put work into my projects, (like Animal Rights Activist 5.12a) as well as try out new terrain. On a recent trip to Clear Creek Canyon with Larissa, we attempted a 5 pitch 5.11d called Solid Gold. It was extremely fun and good to get off of the ground for more than a pitch. Later we cragged at the Creekside Walls and I worked a 12c called ***** with relative ease. It seems that the more I focus on having fun and pushing the grades, the harder I climb. I find it unhealthy to focus on the difficulty of the climb and worry more about how aesthetic it is and how you feel. When I am happy and just enjoying the movements, then chasing grades and climbing hard come naturally. It is kind of ironic then that I am in such a ‘sport climbing’ mode since the goal in this discipline of climbing is to purify the climbing to focus on only the moves. Getting higher and higher without worrying about protection, just climbing.
At any rate, my shoulder has been giving me some trouble lately and I have been trying to quiet its call of pain by eating healthily, getting massages, and resting the area. I plan to do a few Flatirons soon, (since I have been in Boulder for over eight months now and have not even done a single route there.) It will be a good way to get outside without stressing my muscles on harder lines and in the gym.
Financially my situation very much reflects my state of climbing lately. I have been struggling to get rent paid and still eating healthy. I am getting more hours at both the ECC and REI, so this will allow my body to rest from the rock and my wallet to recoup from this recession. I am taking it easy and not worrying too much about what I have to plan out for my life, I am just doing what I love to do. And by doing so I will calm my nerves and be passionate about what I am working on. I have a trip planned to Red Rocks soon and hope to be in good enough financial and metal stability to make is a successful stepping stone to my big wall ventures in the near future.

























